Ideal weather and an explosion of talent are leading to a good year for Washington wine.

The state's grape harvest is in full swing this month, with a flurry of trucks gently transporting plastic bins filled to the brim with inky purple, rusty red and pale green grapes. By many accounts, the 2007 harvest is going to be a good one.

In fact, grape growers are predicting the 2007 harvest will stack up to the seven or eight exceptional vintages of the past 10 years, says Paul Champoux, one of the state's premier grape growers, based in Prosser.

"We're seeing smaller berries, which is good since there is less skin, making the fruit more intense," says Champoux. "In many cases, the harvest will come down to the weather of October, when we are harvesting."

Grape growers and wine makers are hoping for an Indian summer - when the days are still warm enough to complete the ripening and the nights turn crisp, but not frosty. It is the extra hang time that allows grapes to get past the green and vegetative state into the next stage of sweet, fleshy fruit. As the state wine slogan touts, Washington has had the "perfect climate for grapes" since 1997.

Each year, the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers (WAWGG) estimates the crop just before harvest. Vicky Scharlau, WAWGG's executive director, says 2007 has the potential to be the largest crop in the state's history. The estimate for 2007 comes in at 136,447 tons of grapes, compared with 123,563 tons in 2006.

"The numbers will change between now and crush - it is dependent on the weather," Scharlau says. "The crop increase is mostly due to the newer and younger acreage coming on board - it generally takes three to five years to produce grapes."

The larger grape crop this year will come in handy as the state recently licensed its 500th winery - Sweet Valley Wines in Walla Walla. Robin Pollard, executive director of the Washington Wine Commission, says a new winery is now applying for bonding every six days.

"We don't see any signs of slowing down," says Pollard.

Gordy Venneri, wine maker for Walla Walla Vintners, sources fruit from nearly a dozen vineyards in Walla Walla and the Columbia Valley. This year the winter was mild, the spring was early and warm enough to get the right amount of fruit clusters, and the summer has been moderately hot, with a short period of temperature spikes in the 100s.

"Our season can depend on when that 100-degree weather hits, and for how long," says Venneri. "In 100-degree weather, the vine shuts down. Fortunately for us, we don't tend to get long stretches of 100-plus weather."

Most wineries will harvest between Labor Day and Halloween. It is a period of time when grape growers and wine makers have their patience and endurance tested. It is a time when those in the vineyard become part fortune teller and part scientist, peering into the crystal ball, rubbing their good-luck stone and using science to test the sugar levels and watch the weather patterns.

Wine is not like a soda pop that tastes the same with every bottle. No two bottles will taste the same from year to year, due to differences in the weather, soil and viticultural practices.

Consistency in climate is one of the prime factors for making good wines from year to year. Washington typically does not have dramatic swings in temperature or catastrophic wind and rain for weeks at a time.

In the past 10 years, many grape growers and wine makers will point to the 2005 vintage as one of their favorites, along with 2003.

Kevin Corliss, director of vineyard operations for Chateau Ste. Michelle Estate Winery, has been in the fields of eastern Washington for 25 years. In all that time, he has not seen a massive crop failure. "We have our challenges with winter snow, and sometimes early frost, but nothing like other countries, where the weather heavily damages the crops," Corliss says.

With Washington wines, the differences are subtle from year to year. It is something to keep in mind when ordering a wine at a restaurant and the waiter wants to substitute a different vintage.

"It is more important to know the producers in Washington, the consistent ones," says Corliss. "Even in an average year, a good wine maker can make good wines. In our state, that is as important as the vintage."

 

2005 Walla Walla Vintners Merlot:

A classic Merlot with grapes from eight vineyards. The result is a deep cassis/black fruit nose with floral notes of lavender followed by caramel and tobacco and a pinch of dark chocolate. With a grilled T-bone steak, this wine adds a third dimension. $28

Waterbrook 2005 Syrah:

For the price, you get exotic spices, dark chocolate, blueberry and plum notes. The finish is creamy and crisp with floral and spice flavors. Grilled lamb chops with a morel mushroom sauce will sing with this wine. $20

Walter Dacon Syrah C'est Syrah Beaux:

This wine opens with spicy aromas of blackberries, raspberries and a bit of tar, followed by darker fruit, licorice and mocha. With the hints of roasted meat and spice, it goes well with sautéed duck breast in plum sauce. $30

2005 Gordon Brothers Merlot, Columbia Valley:

Another good value, this wine has red plum and coffee flavors, along with spice and rose petals. The long finish makes it a great wine with most kinds of grilled meats. $18

2005 Canoe Ridge Chardonnay:

With a bit of butter and creamy pear, this Chardonnay is a bit more Old World style with tangy honeysuckle and peaches and a splash of pineapple in the finish. Great food wine to try with tarragon chicken or prawns with mango salsa. $19