LIKE THE actor who has toiled for 20 years to become an overnight success, the Washington state wine industry is finally taking its bows, emerging as a world-class leader of premium and value wines and growing like crazy, domestically and internationally.

The numbers alone tell Washington's story - more than 450 bonded wineries (compared with fewer than 20 in the early 1980s); 350 grape growers; nine major American Viticultural Areas (AVAs); 20-plus different varietals planted and an economic impact of $3 billion. In 1993, about 11,000 acres of grapes were planted. Today, just 14 years later, more than 30,000 acres are under cultivation and the number is expanding. The Washington Wine Commission estimates that two new wineries are bonded each month, and state officials estimate well over 500 wineries bonded by the end of the decade.

Quilceda Creek Winery, of Snohomish, made industry history when it scored 100 points for both its 2002 and 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Wine Advocate. Only 15 other U.S. wines have received 100-point ratings from the magazine, and only five 100-point ratings have been awarded to consecutive vintages since its inception in 1978. More Washington wines have appeared on the top 100 lists in a number of trade publications, and the state's viticulture has come of age, an undeniable confirmation that we have arrived and can indeed play with the older kids on the block.

Despite the recognition, excellent wine scores and critical acclaim, Washington is still in its infancy in wine production, experimenting with different varietals in various locations throughout the state. Although Washington is second in wine production in the U.S., California produces more wine than all other states combined, bringing in an estimated $51.8 billion to its economy, compared with $3 billion for Washington.

To give it a global perspective, Americans drink on average about 2.53 gallons of wine per year. In France, a much older culture where wine is generally considered a part of the meal, citizens drink 15 gallons per year on average.

"The future is very bright for us," says Robin Pollard, executive director of the Washington Wine Commission (WWC). "We've made inroads at every price point. The important thing to remember is that regardless of the price point, we have great wines, and that gives us a lot of different markets."

If there is a dichotomy here, it is that Washington produces and is known for both great bargain wines and highly touted premium wines. You either hear about the accolades of Spring Valley's Nina Lee Syrah at $50 per bottle, or you read about the tasty Columbia Crest Shiraz or Merlot, both under $12.

But value wines are also showing up, and not only on the Wine Advocate's list but also the top wine lists from Wine Spectator, Wine & Spirits and Wine Enthusiast. With value on either end of the spectrum, the question is, what's in the middle?

"It is always easy to put Washington wines in a category - either this or that," says Ted Baseler, president and CEO of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. "We have a great range of wines, but somebody will always place us in a category - and our value wines certainly attract attention."

Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, the parent company managed by Baseler, is largely responsible for creating the value wines category, and in doing so, it set the standard for tasty wines in the under-$15 price range. The company has been so successful that some of their top-tier wines, which also receive good ratings from wine critics, don't often get the same attention. It is the lament of large wineries that offer wines at the various price points: When the low-end wines capture attention for being great values, the high-end wines of equal value are sometimes overlooked.