With Valentine's Day just around the corner, couples are searching for an expression of affection that shows thoughtfulness and sets the mood for a romantic evening.

Many of you will buy your mate a box of chocolates, flowers and a card. But this year consider giving a good bottle of wine. Wine sets the right tone for romance; it is a gift you can both share in the moment. Butif you decide to give wine, here's a tip: Don't go for the single hit - smack it out of the ballpark. Splurge a little and buy a great bottle of wine that will make the occasion memorable.

That doesn't mean you have to pay $75 to $100 for a bottle of wine. Do a little research: Go online, talk to your local wine shop folks and select a blend or varietal that works for a night of romance. Or, choose one of my recommendations listed at left.

Whatever you do, though, don't give a house wine to a Valentine. Save those bottles for parties and barbecues. This is the one night when you want a wine that helps set an ambience. Valentine's Day is an occasion to indulge in taste, texture, sounds and intimacy. (You have to supply the music, lighting, restaurant or homemade meal to set the evening in motion.)

There are three wine varietals that come to mind when I think of romance - Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

My first pick would be Pinot Noir. A great bottle will provide velvet silkiness in the mouth that invokes a subtle hair toss for women and the sultriness of Lauren Bacall when she tries to teach Humphrey Bogart how to whistle. ("Just put your lips together and blow ...") A great, earthy Pinot Noir will sidestep the macho in a man and help bring out his gentler, kinder side, encouraging him to share his feelings.

The benefit of offering a good Pinot is that it can cradle a terrific salmon dinner, bridge the gap with a surf and turf, or turn a pair of lamb chops into the best dinner that ever crossed your lips.

The language of love also speaks Cabernet Sauvignon, albeit a bit more boldly and with higher volume than a Pinot Noir. For me, great Cabernets need aging; only with age do they reflect their distinctive aroma of black currant with nuances of cedar, violets, leather or cigar box. Cellar age will also smooth and soften the tannic edge in a good bottle of Cabernet.

Since Cabs are heartier, they generally need heartier dinner fare, such as roasted red meats or game, including duck and pork. Keep in mind that such a big meal can make you a bit more lethargic after dinner. If you have other things in mind, keep the meal simple and somewhat sparse - a small steak, rice and salad, for example.

My final choice is Merlot. Despite its unfair trashing in the movie Sideways, great Merlot can be as tasty, jammy and luscious as a blackberry snow cone on a hot summer day - you can literally anticipate a good Merlot from the first sniff in a glass. Washington state Merlots have the advantage of containing fewer tannins and being generally less heavy than Cabernet Sauvignons, which means they are more food-friendly.

But spend enough money to hit the ranks of the better-made Merlots. There are plenty of products on the market under $20, which are generally average, thin and poorly made wine.

In this category, spend $30 or more to hit the higher-tier Merlots. It will be well worth the money, and will restore your faith that Washington state makes some of the world's best Merlots.

I also have to mention Syrah, even though I didn't list it among my top three romantic wines. Good Syrahs are seductive and spicy, and they work with many types of food. Serving lamb accompanied with Syrah can be the pinnacle of a gorgeous meal. Washington Syrahs are a hot varietal right now, and a gaggle of winemakers are throwing out their versions of Syrah - many are good ones and many not-so-good. A few more years of consistency will likely land this varietal on my romantic list. If Syrah is your heart-thumping, got-to-have-it wine, give it to your sweetheart or serve it with a meal - just pick a distinctive one.

Whether you go out or dine at home, ambience creates the perfect Valentine's Day, and a great bottle of wine will help set that tone. Drink the wine, enjoy the flowers and save the chocolates for later.

Recommendations
2003 Seven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, $30: Great depth of flavor, rich red plum, blackberry and cedar in the nose.

2003 Bernard Griffin Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Reserve, $30: A ripe and supple wine with luscious cherry, currant and plum flavors.

2004 Five Star Merlot, $30: The smoky berry flavors in this wine are seductive with blackberry and vanilla in the mouth.

2003 Novelty Hill Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot, $25: Gorgeous mocha and currant aromas and flavors make this a bargain.

2004 Lemelson Pinot Noir Wilamette Valley Jerome Reserve, $50: The spice and fresh orange peel aromas and the cherry flavors make this a very sexy wine.

2003 Fielding Hills Syrah, Columbia Valley, $32: A classic Washington state Syrah with big aromas, spice, smoke, blackberry and cherry flavors. Perfect for a sensual evening.